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Updated for 2026: This guide combines our original experiences in Xi’an in 2014 with more recent practical information. Prices, taxi experiences and airport shuttle stops described in the original account below are historical, not current guarantees.
Xi’an has been part of our travels since 2014, and we’ve since returned to explore how much the country has changed. For that wider context, read our more recent experiences travelling in modern China.
We also had a less enjoyable encounter near the Bell Tower, described in our Xi’an art scam story.
For street food and the lanes behind the Drum Tower, see our Xi’an Muslim Quarter guide.
For more of our travels around China, see our Bangkok-to-China train journey.
Getting Around Xi’an Today
On foot: If you’re wondering how to get around Xi’an, the Bell Tower (Zhonglou) is an easy central landmark. The Drum Tower, Muslim Quarter and city walls are useful stops for a walk through the old centre. Zhonglou is also served by Metro Line 2, as noted on Xi’an’s city government website.
From the airport: Metro Line 14 serves both Airport (T5), for Terminal 5, and Airport West (T1/T2/T3), for the older terminals. Take Line 14 to Xi’an North railway station and change to Line 2 for Zhonglou (Bell Tower) in central Xi’an. Check your flight terminal and the last train before travelling. See the Line 14 route and terminal stations.
The Melody Hotel shuttle bus information in my original account below describes our 2014 visit, not a recommended current route. For additional details, see Line 14 station information.
City Wall: The South Gate (Yongningmen) remains a practical starting point, with Metro Line 2 nearby.
The circuit is roughly 14 km, and cycle rental is available. The admission, bike and shuttle prices from our earlier visit should not be relied upon today; see updated wall visitor information.
Beyond the centre: Xi’an’s metro has expanded considerably since our trip. Taxis and DiDi ride-hailing are also options. Foreign visitors can use the DiDi-Greater China app with overseas phone numbers and supported international cards, or book rides through Alipay or WeChat. Set your pickup point carefully and keep the destination in Chinese where possible. For the Terracotta Warriors or more distant attractions, check current public transport connections before booking a tour. China’s ride-hailing guidance for visitors. For a firsthand account of an organised day trip, read our Terracotta Warriors tour experience.
Our Original Xi’an Experiences (2014)
Xian was our first destination in China and, to be honest, it was not what I expected.
Xian is far from a sleepy backwater; it is a new, exciting and surprisingly modern city. It is also very smoggy. Xian China is more of a historical city, the ancient structure and architecture now surrounded by sprawling stretches of concrete, traffic and flashing lights, not so different to cities of the west.
While the city centre of Xian was not what I expected what we find is better, a city showcasing both old and new China, authentic yet modern. It is also a simple city to navigate centred around the Bell Tower where roads span out North, South, East and West towards city gates (bring a compass?). Photos below are of Xian Bell Tower then each street travelling out, taken from inside the Bell Tower. For more sightseeing ideas, see our top attractions in Xi’an.
Xian City Wall and City Gates
Tourists rarely venture beyond the City Centre of Xian aka the ‘City Midst’. This is the ‘old city’ centred by the Bell Tower (as above) and surrounding areas are enclosed by the city walls with exits North, South, East and West at coinciding city gates. This can be shown in the simple map I pilfered (below).
One of the top attractions in Xian is trekking the perimeter of the walls, along the top where a path covers roughly 14km. If planning to circle the city walls the South gate is the best starting point, entrance tickets and bike rental were available at the South Gate during our visit. Being lazy we opt for the lazy option touring part of the perimeter by shuttle car.
All Xian City gates are similar in structure and layout; if you see one you’ve more or less seen them all.
Xian Drum Tower and Muslim Quarter
From the Bell Tower you cannot miss the Drum Tower (North West) which has a similar layout and design to the bell tower (only with drums). Along with the Bell Tower they mark the city centre of Xian and both are top attractions which can be toured on the inside. My advice is tour them quick then get to the Muslim Quarter which sits just behind the Drum Tower on Beiyuanmen Street.
Without a doubt one of the best street food streets in Asia (video below) with never-ending aisles of eating.
During the same trip we also stumbled upon a shadow puppet show at Gao Grand Courtyard, tucked away in the Muslim Quarter.
Transport and Taxis in Xian
Taxis in the city centre of Xian are cheap, easy to find and surprisingly honest. In our time being there we were not asked once for a fixed price; every taxi driver starting the meter without asking. A first for me in Asia; Beijing proving a different story.
Back then, we stuck to the green taxis, which were hard to miss. Our taxis printed receipts, with a small surcharge added, and we paid through the separating bars (as below). We also encountered unofficial transport options, but they could be overpriced and were best treated as one-off experiences.
We paid well over the odds for a three-wheeled Tuk-Tuk Rickshaw thing and were sold a lift in what looked to be a disabled cart.
Airport Shuttle Bus
During our 2014 visit, an airport shuttle bus ran between Xi’an Airport and the Bell Tower area. We found it easy to use and cheaper than a taxi. Its drop-off point was a short walk from the Bell Tower on West Street, opposite the Drum Tower and beside the Melody Hotel (shown in images below).
During our trip, buses ran frequently in both directions. Note when travelling to the airport a bunch of dicks may pester you to get a taxi e.g. ‘there’s no more buses’, ‘you’ll be late for your flight’…. don’t listen to them. Thankfully they hound the domestic travellers more as their English isn’t great.
Xian Subway and Beyond City Walls
Xian does have a rather extensive Subway system but chances are you won’t bother with it during a visit. The station in Xian City Centre is found beneath the Bell Tower area (Zhonglou Station). We did use the Subway on two occasions, the first travelling to Xian North Railway Station (for Mount Huashan) and the second to Big Wild Goose Pagoda where we taxied back from for extremely cheap.
At the time, metered taxis were an easy way for us to reach places beyond the centre. The Terracotta Warriors may also be visited on a guided tour, arranged through a hotel or local operator.
