A personal travel journal from our Mount Popa half-day tour from Bagan. The experiences and photographs record our visit, while Myanmar’s security situation has changed significantly since then. For present-day travel decisions, consult the UK government’s Myanmar travel advice before planning any trip.
Mount Popa and Taung Kalat: What Did We Visit?
The golden monastery teetering on top of a rock near Mount Popa is actually Taung Kalat, a volcanic plug beside Mount Popa proper. Visitors often refer to the entire attraction as “Mount Popa”, and I have done the same in my original story. The larger volcanic mountain rises to about 1,518 metres; Taung Kalat is the smaller, dramatic pinnacle crowned with Buddhist shrines. Mount Popa is also deeply associated with Myanmar’s nat spirit traditions, often centred on 37 principal nats. For a closer look at nat worship and the shrines of the area, see this study of nat imagery in Myanmar.
Our Mount Popa Half-Day Tour from Bagan
Our travels to Mount Popa from Bagan was a last minute thing. We arrive to the hotel, ask what tours they recommend, the hotel suggest the Mount Popa tour, we book it. No preparation. The private tour cost more than a local taxi but still felt like a steal.
For the tour we travel by private air-conditioned minivan with driver and an English speaking guide (who speaks very little English but is good at pointing). The tour starts early-ish leaving the hotel in the morning and returning early in the afternoon. It takes roughly 5 to 6 hours for the half day tour.
Is Mount Popa the same as Taung Kalat? The postcard-famous monastery stands on the volcanic plug of Taung Kalat, near Mount Popa. Its steep staircase, religious shrines and resident monkeys are part of the visit. Wear footwear you can easily remove in sacred areas, keep food and loose belongings away from monkeys and plan for the climb if you want to reach the summit. See our Bagan guide.
Palm Toddy Farm and Distillery on the Road to Mount Popa
The road to Mount Popa is in itself an attraction; locals trek between markets and villages balancing all sorts of baggage on their head. Arid countryside, scattered rural villages, farms and buffalo. Roughly 30 minutes into the journey we stop first at a palm tree farm where palm wine distillation and jaggery (palm sugar) are shown.
Interesting, authentic and complimentary shots of potent toddy (50%) make the perfect breakfast (read our full palm toddy distillation story).
The palm farm is more than a roadside drinking stop. Farmers traditionally collect sweet sap from palmyra palms and boil it down into jaggery (palm sugar), or let it ferment into palm wine and sometimes distil a stronger spirit. We also found an animal-powered wooden mill which appears to have been used for pressing peanuts into cooking oil, although we never confirmed what was being pressed during our visit. The mystery of the mill is still one for the comments.
Climbing to Taung Kalat: The Mount Popa Temple
Thirty minutes and four toddy shots later we are back on the road to Mount Popa. Forty minutes later we arrive at Taung Kalat. Not knowing what to expect was a bonus for us as our first glimpse of Mount Popa is a little wowing. Passing a turn on the road Mount Popa appears in the valley opposite, the golden Buddhist temple teetering on top of a volcanic plug (sorry to spoil for others).
We stop at this spot for a photo op and then forward to the base of Mount Popa to join the trek to the top. Around the bottom tiers of Taung Kalat we find a touristy mess of small shops and mass produced trinkets. A short climb further finds a lower level of Buddhist shrines and local food vendors. From here forward the climb is a steep spiral of the mountain to reach the temple top.
The staircase to the summit shrines is commonly described as having around 777 steps, although counts vary depending on where you start. Visitors pass covered stairways and places of worship on the climb; footwear is removed in sacred areas. The local macaques are famously bold around people, so it’s best not to feed them and to secure snacks and loose belongings. We enjoyed the lower shrines and views without attempting every last step.
The Lazy Option: Monkeys, Monks and Shrines
To leave a little mystery I’ll not share the views from the top of Mount Popa (we only make it half way… maybe quarter). We were happy to sit at the mid-tiers watching the weird goings-on around. The smaller temples and shrines, troops of molesting monkeys and the rare sight of slow moving Yeti monks joining their pilgrimage to reach the temple top of Mount Popa.
These shrines are also part of a distinctive religious landscape. In Myanmar, nats are spirits honoured in longstanding local traditions, often alongside Buddhism. Mount Popa is particularly associated with the tradition of 37 major nats and stories of powerful local guardian spirits. There was plenty of atmosphere and pilgrimage life to see from the lower levels, even if we didn’t earn any bragging rights for reaching the top.
Where We Ate on the Return to Bagan
There’s very little between Bagan and Mount Popa so eating options are limited. The choices appear to be little more than rough-and-ready local food, fresh fruit at local markets or the few tourist pit stops along the way. We opt for the safe option at a tourist stopover on the return journey, a popular stop for bus tours with traditional Burmese curry feast and a menu of Chinese and western style foods.
Something for everybody I guess. Check here for our guide to Burmese food. From here on it was a journey back to drop off at the hotel.
Our half-day outing fits neatly into the rest of our Myanmar travels: the temples, sunrise and sunsets of Bagan, the palm wine distillery visit, and the later riverboat trip from Bagan to Mandalay. Each was a different slice of Myanmar as we encountered it at the time.
Mount Popa Tour from Bagan: Frequently Asked Questions
Is Mount Popa the same place as Taung Kalat?
Not quite. Mount Popa is the larger volcanic mountain, while Taung Kalat is the nearby volcanic plug topped with the well-known monastery and shrines. The monastery is commonly described as being at Mount Popa.
How far is Mount Popa from Bagan?
The mountain is roughly 50 kilometres southeast of Bagan in a straight line. The road journey is longer and goes through rural villages and farmland. Our tour stopped at a local toddy farm on the way.
Can you do a Mount Popa tour from Bagan in half a day?
That was our experience: a private minivan trip with a countryside stop and time to explore the lower shrine complex. The whole outing took about five to six hours. Tour options and travel conditions may differ today.
How many steps are there to the Mount Popa monastery?
Taung Kalat is commonly said to have around 777 steps leading to its upper shrines. The climb is steep in places, but visiting the lower levels is an option, as our experience rather thoroughly demonstrates.
What are the 37 nats at Mount Popa?
In Burmese traditions, nats are spirits honoured through shrines and offerings. Mount Popa is closely associated with the 37 major nats and with local guardian-spirit stories, alongside Buddhist pilgrimage and worship.
Are there monkeys at Mount Popa?
Yes. Macaques congregate around Taung Kalat’s walkways and stairs. Avoid feeding or touching them and keep food and loose belongings secured; we met several on our visit.
Is Mount Popa safe to visit today?
Myanmar’s security situation can change significantly, and parts of the country are affected by armed conflict and travel restrictions. Always check the latest official advice rather than relying on this archive as a current recommendation.