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Originally published in April 2014, this Best of Bagan travel guide brings together the temples, restaurants, sunrise balloons and sunset views we enjoyed during our two-day visit. The photographs and travel stories reflect our experience in 2014; access and travel conditions have changed since then.
Bagan Tourism in 2026: Conflict, Earthquake and the Changing Travel Scene
Bagan today is a very different place from the one we visited during Myanmar’s tourism boom. After the COVID-19 shutdown and the military coup of February 2021, international tourism suffered badly. In an October 2026 report from Bagan, Channel News Asia described local craftspeople struggling without the visitors they once depended on. Its figures show foreign arrivals to Bagan dropping from more than 400,000 in 2019 to around 15,000 in 2023. Domestic pilgrims still visit, but this is not the bustling international tourist circuit we remember.
The 28 March 2025 earthquake was another serious blow to central Myanmar. However, there is an important distinction: Bagan’s historic temples largely escaped the severe structural destruction experienced around Mandalay and Sagaing. UNESCO’s 2025 conservation assessment reported only slight damage and minor cracks in some Bagan pagodas and stupas, with no significant structural damage identified at that stage. That does not mean every monument is accessible today, and restoration and inspections still matter.
The larger concern for visitors in 2026 is the ongoing armed conflict and uncertainty over travel. Bagan sits in Mandalay Region, where the UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office advises against all but essential travel outside the region’s northern areas, where it advises against all travel. The FCDO advises against all travel to nearby Sagaing and Magway regions. Yangon is assessed differently, but still carries heightened security risks; none of these distinctions should be taken to mean that a sightseeing route is safe. Transport, restrictions and access can change at short notice.
Bagan’s temples have endured; its tourism economy has not escaped the upheaval. This article therefore remains a travel archive from April 2014 rather than a recommendation to make the journey now. Check current official advice before considering travel, and read our Travel in Myanmar: The Tourism Boom of 2012–2014 for the wider context of those years.
What to do with 2 Days in Bagan?
Are two days enough for Bagan? For us, two days gave plenty of time to explore the Bagan Archaeological Zone, watch the hot-air balloons at sunrise, visit ancient temples and enjoy a sunset overlooking the pagodas. We also squeezed in a separate Mount Popa excursion and a palm toddy stop, covered later in this story. With just one day, I would focus on Bagan itself rather than trying to fit in the countryside as well.
While two days in Bagan is not ideal, it is doable. Without much prior planning, we manage to cover the better of the archaeological zone. The temples, local restaurants and sunrise or sunset views were the obvious highlights of our short stay. In many ways, how long you need in Bagan will depend on your enthusiasm for temples, where there are seemingly endless numbers to be found.
After two days however our excitement for temples wanes, and we leave Bagan with no regrets or feeling of missed opportunity.
Given more than two days in Bagan I’d likely do little more than sit back and admire the temples from afar. The scenes are undoubtedly beautiful. With limited time to explore, the hotel location made little difference to us. We opt for New Bagan, where resorts are cheaper, and we still have impressive views over Bagan’s unforgettable landscapes (Manisanda Hotel). From here we organise our temple tours and make the most of our short stay in Bagan.
What is worth seeing in Bagan? The greatest appeal is exploring the extraordinary spread of Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries across the archaeological landscape. Allow time for major monuments and quieter views between them; sunrise and sunset are especially atmospheric.
Bagan from Sunrise to Evening
Sunrise and Hot-Air Balloons over Bagan
During the ballooning season, sunrise flights may operate above Bagan’s temples when weather and local conditions permit. While we did plan to jump on board the hassles were too much and prices a rip-off. We tried to book on the day we arrive, for travel the following morning. First they don’t take bookings over phone, then only one expensive premium place is available and to reach their booking office we’d have to trek the city.
If planning a balloon flight, check the operator’s published booking information and availability in advance. We chose the next best option and relax at the hotel rooftop to watch the balloons lift off around us.
Exploring Bagan’s Ancient Temples
We arrive close to midday in Bagan with little (no) preparation. Within minutes a half day tour of Bagan is booked. You will find tours and excursions easy to find through hotels, local taxis and random touts. While the popular option for the Bagan Tour is horse and cart we had already covered this not-so-comfy experience previously in Inwa (near Mandalay).
Instead we travel by air-conditioned minivan to speed up our journey and make the most of the limited time we have in Bagan.
The half-day tour covers most of the major temples in Bagan’s Archaeological Zone and if you plan your own itinerary, the driver will happily go along with it.
Sunset over Bagan’s Temples
On our second afternoon, the tour starts around 4pm and again visits the Bagan Archaeological Zone. By now we had flicked through maps and pamphlets and put together a quick to-do list for the driver to fill in the gaps from the previous day. After three temple visits we finish the tour at Shwe San Daw Pagoda where we find the temple rooftop already crammed with tourists waiting for sunset over Bagan. We climb to the top and join them, snap a few photos, then call it a night.
Evening at Sunset Garden Restaurant in New Bagan
Ending the half day tour we have the option of hotel drop off or anywhere we fancy in the area. We opt for a riverside restaurant nearby in New Bagan (Sunset Garden Restaurant) with views over the passing Irrawaddy River. We stuff faces with Chinese food and Mandalay beer then have the restaurant pull a cheap, local taxi for our trip back to the hotel.
We spend the night with panoramic views of the Bagan temples from our hotel’s rooftop veranda, snacking on local Burmese food and sampling the local beers, rums, whiskys….
Side Quest: Mount Popa and the Toddy Tour
The trip to Mount Popa was something of a last-minute decision. As I wrote at the time: “Our travels to Mount Popa from Bagan was a last minute thing. We arrive to the hotel, ask what tours they recommend, the hotel suggest the Mount Popa tour, we book it. No preparation.” From Bagan we headed across the countryside towards the volcanic landmark and its temples.
“Thirty minutes and four toddy shots later we are back on the road to Mount Popa.” The golden temple seemed to appear out of nowhere. We didn’t make it all the way to the top, but the shrines, pilgrims and monkeys made the lower levels entertaining enough. The rest is in our Mount Popa tour from Bagan story.
Palm Toddy and a Rural Distillery Stop
The palm farm was half the fun of getting there. The same stop inspired my separate story about how local toddy is collected, fermented and distilled. In my original words: “On this journey it is ‘Toddy’ I am sampling at a local palm wine farm and distillery in Myanmar (Burma), found in rural and arid countrysides between Bagan and Mount Popa.”
“On this occasion, as it was breakfast time and sweet old mum was in tow, I only stay around for 4 or 5 shots before we forward on to Mount Popa.” There’s much more about the process, rural farm and jaggery in Palm Wine Distillation in Myanmar.
Return to Mandalay by River Cruise
We left Bagan for Mandalay along the Irrawaddy River, an 11-hour upstream journey on our 2014 visit. As I wrote in the original boat diary: “The benefit of travelling early is to relax on deck as the sun rises on Irrawaddy River. Few scenes are so authentic and beautiful.”
There was the rural scenery, the fishing villages and, inevitably, my appetite: “For me the hardest part of the journey was the hunger.” We passed the time watching life unfold along the river while Fanfan edited photographs and I blogged. For the full story and photographs, see Bagan to Mandalay by Boat. This is a record of our 2014 trip, not a current ferry timetable.
Frequently Asked Questions About Bagan
Are two days enough to explore Bagan?
Two days were enough for us to enjoy the ancient temples, sunrise balloons, sunset views and local restaurants, with a separate excursion to Mount Popa. If you prefer a slower pace or want to explore more of the archaeological zone, allow longer.
What are the best things to see in Bagan?
The highlights for us were the temples of the Bagan Archaeological Zone, sunrise views with hot-air balloons, sunset over the pagodas and the atmosphere of New Bagan. Our original 2014 experience is described above, although access to individual monuments may have changed.
Can you see Bagan in one day?
A day can give you a taste of Bagan’s temples and landscapes. I’d prioritise the archaeological zone and either sunrise or sunset rather than trying to squeeze in the longer trip to Mount Popa.
Is Mount Popa part of Bagan?
No. Mount Popa and Taung Kalat are a separate excursion through the countryside outside Bagan. Our Mount Popa tour also included a memorable stop at a palm toddy distillery.
Are hot-air balloon rides available over Bagan?
Balloon flights have historically operated seasonally and depend on weather, operators and local conditions. We watched the balloons from our hotel rooftop instead of taking a flight. Our story is from 2014; don’t assume the same operators or arrangements are available now.
Is it safe to visit Bagan in 2026?
Myanmar’s ongoing conflict creates serious travel risks, and conditions vary across the country. Bagan’s temples largely escaped severe structural damage in the March 2025 earthquake, but that does not make travel safe or guarantee site access. Check the current UK government travel advice for Myanmar and relevant official guidance before planning a trip.
Hi! Where did you book your tours? How much did they cost? 🙂
Muito bom o relato. E as fotos estão lindas, também. Very nice pictures!